Feature: BMUET(TE) SS23 Runway Recap

by Lavish Staff


For spring/summer 2023, BMUET(TE) defies formulaic rules of everyday dress to evoke beauty within unpredictable contrasts. The brand’s handwriting sees rebellion and sophistication combined, painted with new romantic flare. Though this season, South Korean design duo Byungmun Seo and Jina Um push beyond the design codes which have defined BMUET(TE) thus far.

An elegant rawness shapes this season’s look. BMUET(TE) favours dramatic silhouettes throughout, adding frill details to polka dotted shorts, zip-up jackets and skinny trousers. A digitally collaged ‘Eyes’ print draws inspiration from 1990s subculture and is shared across both mens- and womenswear, along with playful twisted knot details which dress up boxy suit jackets, boyish shorts and corset tops.

Charterhouse, London 20th September 2022. BMUETTE presents their Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska

Shirring proves to be a dominant technique throughout, transforming everything from cargo skirts, through to classic shirting and elasticated trousers which come in plaid and an all-over love heart print. The BMUET(TE) tailoring uniform is also updated, with smart dinner jackets left exposed at the back to entice a new sensual side to the BMUET(TE) wardrobe, or perforated with heart-shape cut outs.

Expanding on its womenswear output, BMUET(TE) introduces T-shirt dresses, kilt-trouser hybrids, and denim. The design pairing exaggerates the hips of form-fitting dresses to offer unusual silhouettes, and cuts summer dresses and bubble skirts loose to mimic the shape of budding tulips, daisies, and poppies. Throughout, a delightful palette of purple, yellow and pink meets wrinkled textures in black and white for a collection that thrives on juxtapositions.

Charterhouse, London 20th September 2022. BMUETTE presents their Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska

BMUET(TE) is the ready-to-wear label that strives to advance a reinterpretation of classic luxury with a deconstructive touch. Co-creative directors Byungmun Seo and Jina Um first met whilst working at a design studio in Seoul before both moving to London to broaden their creative boundaries together. They launched BMUET(TE) in 2017, showing their debut collection at Pitti Uomo that same year and were nominated for the International Woolmark Prize. BMUET(TE) has gone on to show at Paris Fashion Week and debuted collections digitally through Seoul Fashion Week and London Fashion Week’s online platforms. In 2021, BMUET(TE) collaborated with Hyundai Motor. The duo challenges the current global fashion market and strives to expand BMUET(TE) to new and interesting areas through distinctive style.

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