At Milan Fashion Week, QASIMI unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Undercurrent, a thoughtful exploration of labor, craftsmanship, and the invisible forces that shape both garments and identity. Under the creative direction of Hoor Al-Qasimi, the collection shifts focus away from fashion as a finished product and instead celebrates the process itself—revealing the gestures, repetitions, and imperfections that become part of a garment’s story.
Relaxed tailoring remains central to the QASIMI vocabulary, elevated through deep pleating, modular construction, and exposed details that intentionally reveal how each piece is made. Threads extend beyond seams, sheer layers expose structural foundations, and displaced panels create movement throughout the collection. The result is a wardrobe that feels both architectural and effortless, balancing utility with refinement. Signature elements such as seasonless layering, relaxed workwear, and softly structured tailoring return alongside manually dyed twill suiting, pleated denim silhouettes, and lightweight checks reimagined for warmer months.
The collection marks the beginning of a two-season dialogue inspired by the late Hassan Sharif, one of the Gulf region’s most influential contemporary artists. Developed in collaboration with Sharif’s estate, Undercurrent translates the artist’s fascination with repetition, accumulation, and manual intervention into the language of clothing. Rather than directly referencing specific works, QASIMI adopts the principles behind Sharif’s practice—transforming repetition into construction, accumulation into layering, and gesture into form. Throughout the collection, these concepts emerge through pleated shirts, shifting modular panels, exposed construction techniques, and garments presented inside-out to reveal their internal architecture.
A warm earth-toned palette anchors the season, with shades of brown, camel, and mocha contrasted by agave green, olive, rose dawn, and crisp white. References to the Gulf’s pre-oil heritage appear through wave-inspired textures, reflective surfaces reminiscent of water, and open crochet details that subtly echo fishing nets and pearl-diving traditions. These cultural references feel organic rather than literal, seamlessly integrating with the collection’s broader meditation on labor, memory, and transformation.
More than a tribute, Undercurrent serves as a reflection on the foundations of the house itself. By making the process visible long after the act of creation has ended, QASIMI presents clothing as a living record of time, effort, and human touch. In an era increasingly defined by speed and immediacy, the collection offers a reminder that meaning is often built slowly—through repetition, patience, and the marks left behind.
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