The show of the New York-based collective Anonymous Club, led by Shayne Oliver was part of the Intervention program like Gerrit Jacob and back2back. The Anonymous Club is the creative studio of the Shayne Oliver Group®.
The show was a symbol of creativity unrestrained. With Shayne Oliver at the helm, the Anonymous Club continues to push boundaries, challenge norms, and pave the way for a new era of fashion where self-expression knows no bounds.
At the heart of the Anonymous Club’s ethos lies Oliver’s eclectic vision, seamlessly blending elements of art, music, and fashion. Collaborating with a diverse group of artists including Tama Gucci, Izzy Spears, Total Freedom, Christian Velasquez, Santiago, Thug Pop, and Ian Isiah, the club aims to redefine the urban uniform. Through the concept of “headlessness,” a term coined by Oliver himself to encapsulate his idea of extravagant attire, Anonymous Club presents collections that embody its founder’s multifaceted personality, drawing inspiration from nightlife and experimental archives.
As part of Berlin Contemporary, Irina Dzhus once again presented her collection during Berlin Fashion Week. In the Fall/Winter 2024 edition, the Ukrainian designer showcased how the boundaries between art and fashion can be blurred. All of her looks are not only intricately designed, progressive in silhouette, cut, and materials, but above all, transformable. In the NEWEST-Showspace, the press café, Irina Dzhus turned her runway into a stage to narrate her very personal story through her designs. She shares the details of this story here.
Your collection is called “ABSOLUTE”, which thematically circles around your personal trauma. One is escaping the war, the other one is processing an abuse experience. How do you transport these quite heavy topics into fashion?
Self-ironically enough, I have utilized my ‘OCD-driven’ design potential in order to generate highly dialectical, multipurpose outfits. In the mode of self-rediscovery and self-reinvention, I translate ‘patterns into patterns’, deciphering the complex structure of my trauma and redirecting it into avant-garde design solutions. I freeze my intimate memories in 2D-iconography-based outfits with encoded messages. For the first time fragments of my normally unpublished graphic art is shown.
All of your looks are so well handcrafted, so detailed and on top of that transformable. Where did you find inspiration this season?
Thematically, I revisited my comfort zone, referring to modernist comics and gnostic narratives, attributes of social conformism, and gender representation speculations. Sustainable sartorial techniques and textile manipulations pay homage to the craft of kintsugi, as I shape my sculptural apparel from fragments of pre-owned headpieces and scarves.
A diverse cast representing all women was particularly important for Malaika Raiss, winner of Berlin Contemporary. Thus, artists or PR agents also presented her collection. “A model must captivate me with her charisma as soon as she enters the room,” explains Raiss.
Countless shops, showrooms, collectives, and designers open their doors during BFW as part of the B2C initiative Studio2Retail. Ateliers, pop-ups, stores, and other creative spaces not only offer visitors glimpses behind the scenes of the fashion industry, panel discussions, and collections but also special offers and events – by and with creative individuals.