This collection is officially linked to the opera Idomeneo, which will premiere at the Grand Théâtre de Genève1 in Switzerland on February 21, 2024.
Idomeneo is an opera composed by Mozart in 1781. This new interpretation of the classic tale of human suffering from the disasters of the ancient Greek wars is directed by Belgian choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui and will be presented with stage design by contemporary artist Chiharu Shiota and costumes by YUIMA NAKAZATO.
The runway show is also staged in collaboration with Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui.
In the process of creating this collection, I came across the Japanese word utakata, which means “ephemeral”. This word seemed to express the exact opposite of the trend seen in the evolution of men’s clothing, where functionality and durability are increasingly valued and prioritized. What I wanted to convey with this collection was a sort of ephemeral armor—much like a delicate bubble formed on the surface of the water, capable of vanishing in the blink of an eye. This approach also represents a release from or renunciation of battle.
Through the contradictory existence of delicate, fragile armor created by textiles shredded and reclaimed from worn-out uniforms and workwear and decorated with ceramics, glass, and platinum, this collection shows the evolution of clothing that could have been otherwise. It is also an attempt to fuse the delicate and fragile handwork elements of couture with the evolutionary path followed by men’s clothing that has continued since ancient times. The fact that men appear on the stage of haute couture wearing these garments serves to embody our present era through its reexamination of the concept of toxic masculinity.
Lastly, this show was created together with Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui as sort of a non-verbal communication with modern society.
There are no set answers, and the collection allows for various interpretations.